KITCHEN ORGANIZATION
STAFF AND RESPONSIBILITIES
The
staff categories and duties defined in the partie system described in this
chapter were developed in the past and survive today only in a few larger
hotels and restaurants. Even in these few places, they have been radically
revised. Nevertheless, the partie system operated by Escoffier has so affected
present - day chefs that a detailed discussion is valuable; it remains an
integral part of the culinary craft's tradition and illustrates the enduring principles
involved in detaining task grouping. It can also serve as a starting point for
meaningful future reorganization.
The
basis of the old partie system and its modern counterparts is the degree of
specialization that must exist among an establishment's cooks. In a large
foodservice establishment, the operation as a whole runs more smoothly when
each person has clearly defined tasks to perform and when these are all
coordinated by a supervisor.
Chefs
In the classic partie system, chefs belong to
a clear-cut hierarchy much like that of a military organization.
Chef de Cuisine (Head Chef)
The chef de cuisine - who is frequently
referred to in these pages as "the chef" - is in command of the
kitchen and is second in status only to the overall manager of the establishment.
The chef de cuisine bears major responsibility
for staff selection and dismissal, in conjunction with the personnel
department. Because of the complexity of the operation, it is essential to help
subordinates develop their skills and art to the fullest extent possible.
The
executive responsibilities of the chef de cuisine can be considered under the
principal headings of;
Food
and food costs (through menu planning and ordering)
Kitchen
staff
Kitchen
plant and equipment
All
three must be coordinated to produce good food efficiently and economically.
Sous - Chef
The
sous-chef, or "under chef:, is the principal assistant of the chef de
cuisine. If the chef de cuisine is considered the commander, the sous-chef is
the executive officer, or second in command. In large establishments,
sous-chefs have no sectional or partie responsibility, but aid the chef in
general administration, in supervising the work of preparing food, and in
overseeing its service. Where a very large kitchen preparing food, and in
overseeing its service. Where a very large kitchen operation is involved, there
may be more than one sous-chef.
Chefs de Partie
A
chef de partie is a working cook in charge of clearly defined section of
activity within the kitchen. As mentioned above, a chef de partie of one of the
more important sections, particularly the sauce or the larder, may have the
status and duties of a sous-chef in addition to sectional responsibilities.
The
work of the various parties differs in type and magnitude, but there are
certain features common to each. All chefs de partie may be regarded as
supervisors or foremen of their sections as well as being skillful in their
particular areas of cookery. They must, for example, plan and organize their
work and staff; normally, they must also prepare daily requisitions for
supplies, which usually require review and approval by the chef de cuisine or
the appropriate sous-chef. To accomplish these tasks, the chef de partie needs
only the menu as a blueprint, and then estimates of the number of customers and
of the likely demand for the various items. Once the supplies have been
ordered, the chef de partie will allocate the work to be done; subordinates
include a commis (assistant), and one or more apprentices. Though much of this
work may fall into a pattern or regular routine, it still remains necessary for
a chef de partie to cultivate some qualities of a supervisor in order to plan
and organize the pratical work of the section successfully. This responsibility
and task varies in difficulty, of course, according to the size of the
particular partie.
The principal chefs de partie are as
follows:
Chef Saucier (Sauce cook). Even if the
role does not involve doubling as a sous-chef, the chef saucier is still
regarded as only slightly lower in status- and is rivaled among chefs de
parties only by the chef garde -manger (larder cook) and perhaps by the chef
pattissier ( pastry cook). The reason for the chef saucier's importance is that
the duties to be fulfilled are very complex and play a vital role in meeting
the requirements of the menu.
The
required work comprises cooking, garnishing, and dishing all meat, poultry, and
game dishes, with the exception of those that are simply grilled or roasted
(these are cooked by the chef rotisseur).
Chef Garde-manger (Larder Cook). The chef garde-manger is in charge of the larder, the place where
the raw materials of cookery are prepared and dressed. The general work of the
garde-manger can be divided into two parts: the items for which the
garde-manger is solely responsible: and the items the garde-manger produces to
be cooked and worked on by other parties.
The
garde-manger's own dishes include those commonly found on a cold table - for
example, cold cuts and cold fish dishes. Sandwiches, too, are the
responsibility of the garde-manger, except for some of the specialty hot or
toasted sandwiches such as club sandwiches (ordinarily dealt with by the chef
rotisseur). The salad maker, who is responsible for the preparatory work and
assembling of salads, usually works in the garde-manger's section. Salad
dressings and other dressings and sauces for cold foods are also undertaken by
the chef garde-manger.
Chef Potager (Soup Cook). Reviewing the
remaining parties in a sequence similar to that of the courses on a menu brings
forward first the chef potager. This chef de partie is responsible for
preparing all soups for the establishment and for making all accompanying
garnishes. Because of the chef potager prepares for the earliest course of lunch
and dinner, the job's hours sometimes begin (and end) a little earlier than do
those of the other cooks.
Chef Poissonnier (Fish
Cook). The chef poissonnier
is responsible for most of the cooking, garnishing, and sauce-making for the
fish courses of a menu, including freshwater fish, saltwater fish, and
shellfish such as crabs, crayfish, shrimps, scallops, lobsters, and mussels.
However, there are exceptions: deep -fried fish are normally handled separately
by an assistant cook; fish grilling may be done by the grill cook or by a
subordinate in that section; and raw oysters are ordinarily served direct from
either the fishmonger or the garde-manger
(only when cooked are they dished direct from the chef poissonniers corner).
Chef Rôtisseur (Roast
Cook). The work of the rôtisseurs partie has
changed more, perhaps, than that of any other section. Roasting with a spit
over an open fire has largely been replaced by oven roasting, which is
virtually the same as baking. Spit roasting has recently been revived with
special electrical heating equipment, but its use is normally limited to
certain appropriate foodstuffs, such as chicken.
Larger
establishments may have additional specialists in this partie. For example, a
chef trancheur (carver) may be under the control of the rotisseur. The
trancheur normally is skilled only in carving, not in cooking, and may operate
at the hot service counter behind the scenes, at a buffet table in the dining
room, or by patrolling the restaurant with a heated cart. In some establishments,
the work of the grill cook is simply undertaken by a subordinate of the chef
rotisseur. A separate grillardin (grill cook), if needed, may deal with
savories and combine the functions of the grillardin with those of the
savourier (savoury cook) The grillardin, therefore, is a semiskilled specialty
cook or assistant rather than a full chef de partie of experience. The specific
skill required is to be able to deal with traditional charcoal grills, or more
modern grills using electricity or gas, with care, experience, and judgment.
Chef Entremetteur
(Vegetable, Egg, and Noodle Cook). The entremetteur in the kitchen brigade is concerned mainly with cooking
vegetables, but also with preparing eggs (especially omelets), pasta, rice and
other starchy dishes.
Chef Patissier (Pastry cook). The chef patissier is responsible for
all hot and cold sweets such as pastry pudding, and ice cream. The work of this
section is normally separated from the main body of the kitchen, and its area
is self-sufficient - with its own cold storage, specialist machinery, equipment
for making ice cream, and days operate their own bakery with a full-time Boulanger (baker). Where baking is
normally restricted to a limited quantity of bread and rolls, the work is
likely to be in the hands of one of the chef pattissier's subordinates.
Chef Tournant (Relief Cook): The chef
tournant is simply the chef de partie's replacement - for any partie- when the
latter is away on business, for training, or on vacation. Some chefs de partie
choose an experienced commis (assistant ) for this position, because this
person has fresh memories of all the parties gained during apprenticeship.
Chef de Garde (Duty Cook) The term chef
de garde means simply the "chef on guard"- that is, the duty cook in
charge when the chef de cuisine and most of the kitchen staff are off-duty.
This happens in the late evening after dinner or during the between-meal break
in establishments in which the split-shift system is practiced. During the
period of duty, the chef de garde remains behind with a small number of
assistants to continue any work that cannot be delayed until the remainder of
the staff returns to work
Chef de
Nuit (Night-Duty cook) The chef de nuit is similarly a chef whose duty is
to take over when the main kitchen staff has gone.
Chef des Banquets (Banquet Chef)
In the largest establishment's, completely separate arrangements may be
provided for banquets and meals for special functions, with the chef des
banquets in charge. The chef des banquets' responsibility includes overseeing
the assembly and service of the banquet, but not necessarily all of the
cooking.
Breakfast Cook. The traditional chefs
de partie normally appear with their commis in time to prepare lunch. The
cooking and service of breakfast in hotels is commonly entrusted to a specialty
cook whose range is limited to the needs of breakfast. This person does not
rank as a full chef de partie but nevertheless needs to possess good skills
within the limited field.
Chef Communar (Staff Cook) In many small
establishments, food for the hotel and restaurant staff is prepared by the same
chefs de partie who cook for customers. But in larger houses, a separate
section of the kitchen, or even a completely separate kitchen, may be allocated
for producing staff meals. Either way, ;the chef communar, operating under the
chef de cuisine, is in charge.
STAFF
Working
under the direction of the various chefs are a number of subordinate personnel
of different types.
Cooking Artisans
Commis
(Assistants). The chef of each partie is assisted by one or more trained cooks
who have not yet reached full chef status. These assistants or commis have
presumably completed their apprenticeship training, but are still in the
process of gaining experience before taking full partie responsibilities.
Nevertheless, the first commis, as the senior assistant in each section is
called, should be capable of taking charge when the section's chef de partie is
off. As second in command, the first commis should take considerable responsibility
under the partie chef even when the latter is there.
Apprentices.
Each partie has apprentices or trainees who, while learning, are also helping
in the practical day-to-day of food preparation and cookery.
Noncooking
Kitchen Staff
·
Secretaire de Cuisine (Kitchen Clerk).
·
Assembleur (Expediter).
·
Econome (Storekeeper).
·
Cold and Perishable Storage Attendant.
·
Kitchen Porters.
·
Scullery Person:
·
Kitchen Hands
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